Manek Chowk after dark, pol breakfasts and the Gujarati thali worth queuing for in Ahmedabad's walled city.
The walled city eats on a different clock: breakfast before eight, nothing much at four, and a street food market that only makes sense at midnight.
Morning
Fafda-jalebi and poha stalls open with the pols. Ask for the queue, not the signboard.
Midnight at Manek Chowk
The jewellery market becomes a food street after 10pm. Come hungry, carry cash, and expect to share a table.
Sit-down thali
For a full Gujarati thali with a roof over your head, the heritage houses around the old city serve set menus — see the Restaurants & Cafes listings for hours, since most close between lunch and dinner.